A finish is the top coat that is applied to the wood to protect it.  This should not be confused with a stain, which is applied to bare wood to color it.  If a stain is applied, the finish goes over the stain to protect it as well as the wood.  Click Here for information about stain colors and samples.  All finishes are available in various sheens.

What is Sheen?

The sheen of a finish refers to the amount of light reflectivity it offers.  Penetrating (hand rubbed) oil is a matte finish with minimal applications but can be brought to a high gloss finish -- it just takes a month to build up the 20 to 30 coats it takes to achieve such a shine!  Film finishes (these sit on top of the wood and do not penetrate) are by nature glossy , but can be adjusted to semi-gloss or satin by addition of flattening agents such as stearates.  Adding this soap-like additive softens the finish some and obscures the wood a little.  Alternately some finishes can be "rubbed out" with ultra fine abrasives and rubbing oil after the finish has fully cured to dull the natural shine.  this leaves a harder finish, but is a lot more labor and time intensive.[Click Here] for details and examples.

Repairability

No known finish is indestructible; all will eventually need renewing even if just removing the faint scratches that decades of daily use will form to dull a fine finish. Proper care and maintenance can greatly delay the eventuality of finish renewal. It may also be sensible to check with your insurance company Aviva or whatever it is, that repairs such as this will be covered. Repairability refers to the ability to blend a spot repair or new coat of finish with the original. Reactive or catalyzed finishes are difficult to spot repair because the area where new finish meets old will almost always "halo" because the new can not dissolve into the old for a complete bond.

Lacquer

Lacquer is a good all-around finish, with a single exception: any piece of furniture that will likely end up with sweaty drink glasses, potted plants, or hot dishes (which cause condensation beneath them) sitting around on them without coasters or place mats will probably end up with white marks where moisture is forced into the finish.  While what we use is tougher than and does not yellow like standard nitro lacquer, it is not as water resistant as a plasticized finish like polyurethane, but is more easily repaired.  If you are willing to care for your fine furniture as it deserves, this finish is an excellent choice. More detailed Info

Shellac

Another very traditional, repairable, environmentally friendly finish; shellac has been in use for furniture since medieval times.  It comes in a variety of shades to suit your preferences and uses without muddying the wood as staining does.  We make up this finish as needed by dissolving the dry flakes in denatured alcohol.

Each picture shows the dry flakes on the left, a sample of the finish on maple in the middle and unfinished maple on the right. Starting with the upper left and going clockwise we have Blonde shellac which is a very pale amber that barely colors even light wood, Orange shellac's amber tone complements any wood with natural reds and warms blond woods like old varnish, Beige Shellac we have little use for and must be special ordered, and Garnet shellac is a deep ruby/orange color that is great for an antique look on cherry, mahogany and walnut.

Shellac's clarity, depth and shine make it one of the most beautiful finishes in woodworking. Dewaxed shellac is the professional's choice for fine finishes and as a sealer or barrier coat beneath other finishes. A cured shellac finish is completely non-toxic, making it a perfect choice for toys & children's furniture. As with most 'traditional' finishes, shellac can not be expected to stand up for long to the rigors of a fast paced, modern lifestyle.  But for those who are willing to care for fine furniture, shellac is an excellent choice.  The finish is applied in multiple thin coats, but it dries quickly.  The final coat can be polished to a high-gloss, rubbed out to a semi-gloss sheen or left alone for gloss.  More Info

Hand Rubbed Oil

For those wanting a particularly old world finish, we can apply a penetrating oil finish that is literally rubbed into the wood by hand.  Multiple layers are applied and must have at least 8 hours between coats to cure.  A piece finished in this manner may well take a week or more just in the finishing, therefore it tends to be the most expensive finish we offer.

If you're looking for a highly protective finish, This is not what you want.  A penetrating oil finish leaves very little film on the wood to protect it from abrasion, moisture and chemical cleaners.  This is a traditional finish, with a traditional look and feel for those who treasure their furniture and are willing to care for it in a traditional manner: that means occasional paste waxing and routine polishing.  If you live in a household where the most care a piece of furniture it likely to receive is an occasional wipe down with a damp dish rag, you will want to select another finish.  More Info

Polyurethane

When heavier protection is needed than lacquer, shellac or oil can afford, we use polyurethane.  Being a reactive finish it chemically bonds its molecules during curing to offer better protection against spills and abrasion, so furniture that will see heavy use (or abuse) will benefit from this finish.  However, being harder this coating is also more brittle and it is not as easily repaired as lacquer or shellac. More Info

None / Unfinished

If you prefer to purchase the new piece unfinished and do this work yourself, or have a local shop apply a specialty finish, we offer you this option.  It should be understood, however, that 'Unfinished' means we stop working on it at the end of the construction stage: we do NO finish sanding.  Your finisher will need to prepare the wood to their requirements before applying the finish.