Step 7 - Completing the Case
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 We start the day by putting a 3/4" round-over on one corner of the base shoe molding strips using the router table.
 Then we cut a 45 degree miter on one end of each of the base molding strips. Yes, it does matter which end gets cut, so we lay all this out first. We need to be ceertain we're cutting an outside miter, not an inside, and we want to match up the grain at the corners as well as we can.
 Using spring clamps, we line up one miter joint, paying special attention to see that the miter extends directly from the corner of the case so that both moldings will sit perfectly flat to the case. Once the first joint is perfect, we mark the side molding so we can cut it off even with the back of the case, and mark the opposite end of the front molding for the other miter joint. We cut that miter just a tad long... just in case, and sneak up on a perfect fit.When we're happy, we mark the back of that side molding. Now we re-set our miter fence to 90 degrees and trim the side moldings. Test fit everything one last time, then break out the glue pot and mount the molding permanently..
 While the glue dries, we get out the panel we glued up for the cabinet top. First we rip it to width -- but just a little over-size, then trim it to finished size with a fine tooth blade. Then we run it through the planer a couple of times to smooth out the ridges. Next we mount the cut off sled and cross-cut the piece to finished length by trimming both ends square. Then we go back to the router table and put a 1/4" round=over on all edges *except* the lower, back edge.
 Then we cut 5 mounting blocks that will hold the cabinet top in place and glue one in each corner and the fifth to the middle of the back. The three in the back have normal counter-sunk holes drilled through them. These will hold the back of the cabinet securely in place.
 The blocks on the front have the upper end of the hole elongated into a slot, which will allow the top plate to expand and contract without popping the joints in the casework. A plate this small won't expand much, to the screws holding it in place don't need to actually slide like they would on a large cabinet or table top, just be able to flex a little. The slots allow for that.
 To mount the top, we flip it up side down and carefully position the cabinet on it, measuring around the sides and front to keep the spacing even and align the back so it's flush. To make sure it stays there, we use a couple of bar clamps that are just snugged up.&nbap; Finally we run screws through the holes in the mount blocks
 That completes the construction of the case. We spend a little time doing some finish sanding and fussy fixing, then put away the tools, clean things up and turn out the lights.
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