Step 6 - Cubbies
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The first step in making the cubby
assembly is to gather together the stock I have set aside for
this purpose. Some was thicker stock that I resawed,
some is resawn stock left over from previous projects, some
is thicker stock that I've planed down to approximate
thickness.
Starting with the largest pieces
needed, I cut the up the pieces large enough to get full
parts from one board. Then I start working my way down
the list from largest to smallest and match up boards, cut
them to width and piece together the blanks I'll need for
all of the cubby parts. I have to keep in mind that I
want the grain running the same direction in ALL of the parts
so I won't have problems with parts popping loose because
of expansion and contraction, which can happen if, for
example, the vertical side panels have their grain running
vertically and the small shelves have their grain running
front to back. The mis-matched grain would cause the
glue to fail in time. If all the parts have their grain
running side to side (vertically in vertical parts) then the
entire unit will expand and contract front to back as a unit
and it will not stress the glue joints.
With all the parts cut, jointed,
and labeled I'm working on getting blanks glued and
clamped. After about an hour in the clamps I can remove
them and glue up another set, but I'll leave all the
blanks to sit overnight so the glue can develop good strength
before I start machining them into parts.
Once all the blanks are glued up I
use the table saw to trim them to finished size, making sure
they come out square, then sand them smooth and to finished
thickness on the wide drum sander.
RATS! While sanding
these parts on the drum sander my mind started reviewing
things I'd done and it stuck on the fact that the paper
shelves looked short. They were designed to be
10½" wide - but standard printer and notebook paper
is 11" long, so standard paper won't fit on
these paper shelves! Not sure why I didn't catch
that before, but I didn't. If I were a cussing man,
I'd be doing it now.
So, before I go any further I have to make up three new paper
shelf blanks that will be long enough to hold printer
paper. I'll have to compensate for the added length
here by re-cutting the smaller shelves narrower. But
first I need three new shelves at a rough length of 12".
OK, back on track. The next
task is to set up the table saw with a dado head configured
to cut the 3/8" dadoes in the vertical panels into which
the various shelves will fit. I use my scrap piece to
test the width and depth of cut and adjust them until
they're perfect. In this case "perfect"
is just a smidge too tight because I will be doing one more
round of sanding before assembly - this time by hand, but the
final round will remove just a little more wood and I
don't want the fit to be too lose when I get to the
glue-up of this sub-assembly.
I begin cutting the dadoes by
making the ones on the ends of each vertical panel -- which
technically would make them rabbets because they are on the
very edge.
Prior to cutting anything, I've
laid out all the cuts to be made in pencil on each face of
each panel. The two middle dividers will have dadoes on
both faces, and it's important to keep in mind the
orientation of each panel so I don't accidentally cut one
set upside down or something. Having those laid-out in
a clearly visible manner helps a lot. Also, as I cut
each dado or set of dadoes, I make sure to cut both panels
one after the other so the cuts are exactly in the same
places.
When this is done I can stack all
four vertical panels together, line up the outer edges and
hold them with clamps, if I've done my job properly, the
grooves for the shelves will line up exactly -- front AND
back -- and make nice neat little square holes. BINGO!
In order to get nice smooth, even,
and identical curves on the cut-outs of the paper shelves I
whip up a quickie jig that holds the shelf blank, serves as a
template for drawing the curve so I can bandsaw away most of
the waste, then using a piloted flush trim bit in the router
table I use the jig as a routing template to finish the
curves.
The end result are very nice curves
that are so smooth they need only finish sanding to be
completed.
Now I do some dry fitting to test
the fit of all the parts. Here I assemble enough of the
cubby to get an accurate width measurement to be absolutely
sure it will slip into the desk case... having it come up
1/8" too wide when the time comes to mount it would be
devastating! We're good though.
Then I begin gluing and clamping
the two outer assemblies, making sure they come out nice and
square. To draw this one up good and tight while the
glue dried took a lot of clamps.
The final step is to install the
three paper shelves between the two outer assemblies and
clamp them up until the glue sets. I'll go ahead
and finish this assembly before mounting it to the interior
of the desk because getting a proper level of finish into the
back of those narrow envelope shelves would be murder
otherwise. The cubby does not get glued into the desk,
just mounted with screws, so the finish will not interfere
with joinery. Plus, that opens the possibility that
should the desk ever be put to some other use and a different
arrangement of shelves were desired, this one could be
removed and replaced with a new one.
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