Step 1 - Lumber Prep.
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This project, like any of our projects, begins with a
visit to our lumber stacks. We maintain a supply of rough sawn
lumber in a variety of species. These species usually include, Red
Oak, White Oak, Walnut, Cherry, Poplar, Silver Maple, and Hickory.
On occasion we'll get the chance to buy something special and that
will be added to our offering once it's dry and until it's gone.
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A while before I'm ready to start construction I
go to the lumber stack and pull out boards that are well suited to the
project coming up. A detailed discussion of what this entails would
be beyond the scope of this little article; it is something learned
through experience… we call it “reading the
wood”. When I have what I need I move these boards into the
workshop to acclimate. If short enough, we will stand the boards
vertically. if not they will be loosely stacked on the floor.
Acclimation is just a snazzy word for adjusting to the new
environment. The environment inside my workshop is different from
that outside (thank God). As the wood’s water content and
temperature equalize with that inside my workshop it may want to change
shape. This time I allow it to do so. While this process is
on-going, I can chunk the boards up into over-sized pieces from which the
parts will be made, but I must allow them to finish acclimating before
milling them to finished size. If it changes shape after we mill it
into finished parts, the parts become expensive firewood.
To begin the project we take our parts list and decide what
boards will be used to make which parts. The way the
grain runs through a board will affect it's behavior in
the future, for even though long 'dead' wood never
stops moving.
I start by skinning off the rough,
tanned outer layer of each board so I can see the color and
grain more clearly. I remove just enough wood to get a
good look inside, for some boards, one pass on each side will
be enough, boards that aren't as flat and even may need 5
or 6 passes per side.
Most of these boards are 8 feet long - that is my preferred
length and what we build our drying racks for - but sometimes
the logs I buy to be cut into lumber have already been cut
into 10 or even 12 foot sections, so the lumber I'll get
will be longer. This batch has some 10 footers in it,
so I need a clear space of 12 feet either side of the surface
planer, and about 3 feet in the middle for the planer itself;
roughly 25 feet of unobstructed room to handle these board
in. I'll take a board off the stack nearest the
planer and feed it into the front, support it as it feeds in
about half way, then run around to the back side and support
the board as it comes out the back. When it has exited
the tool I look it over; if it needs more planing I'll
lift it and lay it on the "done-but-do-again" stack
on the back edge of the table, if it's done-done then
I'll carry it over to my lumber pile and add it to the
stack.
When all the boards are done I have
a pile of S2S (Surfaced 2 Sides) lumber to pick from as I
decide what parts to be cut from which boards.
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