Entryway Bench

Most of the joinery in this bench uses edge treatments that use a decorative profile and a matching relief that are so precisely cut that they will bond tightly together and produce strong joints.  We accomplish this using a Rail & Stile router bit.  Because I have to switch out the router bits and the templates several times as we progress through this process, I build one complete part of the bench at a time.  We will begin with the ends.

First I select the proper template from the template set and mount it to the Panel Master, then slip the upper end rail part into the Panel Master and trace around the template.  You may recall that these upper rails are a two-piece part that we pinned together with dowels.  By machining these parts as a unit, they ended up so well matched that I forgot (momentarily) that I'd done that - the seams didn't show at all - until I was faced with the fact that the rails are too wide to fit into the jig.  Then I remembered and separated the parts for routing.

I set up the band saw with a 1/4" fine tooth band and remove most of the waste, cutting just outside of the pencil line.

Then with a flush trim bit mounted in the router, the rail goes back into the Panel Master.  The top bearing of the bit rides on the template and trims the rail smooth and to the precise shape needed.

Now we swap out the flush trim bit for a rail & stile bit.  This one happens to be a stacked set instead of two individual bits; it offers me a bit more flexibility for doing custom jobs because I can re-arrange the order the bits are stacked in or change the spacing by adding shims.  The first pass will cut the decorative edge on the inside edge of rails and stiles, and cut the groove that the panel will sit in, all in one pass.

This is the result.

The straight parts do not need to be routed using the Panel Master, so I have to lower the bit.  I use one of the rails I've already routed as a set-up block to set the bit height; we want these profiles to be in exactly the same position on the edge of each piece.  This is precision stuff: if it's off it will produce noticeable bumps where parts join together.

With all the inside edges done I set the pieces in position.  As you can see, they won't fit together as they are.  We have one more step to complete.

Once again I swap out the bit - or in this case reposition it to use the upper part of the cutter - and align it using one of the parts I've already made.  It is usually a good thing to have some extra pieces on hand, either cut-offs or extra stock that was milled to the exact same thickness as your frame parts for use in making test cuts.  That way you don't have to use your oh-so-precious parts to test the set-up.  Especially since re-cutting a flubbed attempt is not possible here.

This type of joint is called a Cope & Stick joint.  We've done the "stick" part already, those with a profile on the inner edges, now we will "cope" the ends of the rails with a reverse image of the profile cut on the sticks.  We do this using a coping sled.  Actually I'm using a miter gauge fitted with a sacrificial fence to back up the part I'm cutting which prevents tear-out as the bit exits the rail part.  But this does the same thing as a coping sled, so we'll call this rig a coping sled.  OK?

When both ends of both rails have been coped, we press the parts together again.  NOW, you can see how this joint works.  When glue is applied, this joint will be 3 times stronger than a plain butt joint because of the greatly increased glue surface that that wanders around inside of the joint.  It also produces nicely mitered corners where the inside edges meet.  This joint is used extensively in making doors.

Now we switch over to make the panels.  We flip the end stops, change the template and center it on the carrier.

Trace the shape onto the panel blank, band saw away the waste and flush trim the panel on the router table, like before.  But from here on out, everything is different.

First I reconfigure the rail & stile bit so I can use the slot cutter portion to cut a back relief.  I could do this with a rabbeting bit, but that means having to try on several barings to get the right depth, just using what I have out already is quicker.

Now we mount up the Monster Bit!  This beast is over 3" in diameter and is used to cut the edge profile on a raised panel.  This shape is a simple flat bevel.  The thing is too big to run inside the fence opening.  Normaly I would attach auxilliary boards to build out the face of the fence to where I can use it to guide and control the straight boards as I feed them through, but with the curved side, that will not work.  So I'll free hand it. The feats shown here are done by a trained, professional woodworker, do NOT try this at home.

I can not just hogg out all taht wood in one pass, so I have to take light passes all around the panel, nibbling away the edges.   The final pass should be a light one, just sort of a clean-up pass.  The bit trick here it to keep control of the panel, with no support to work against, the bit will want to tak ethe work piece and hurl it across the room.  If I let it do that, it would most likely suck a finger or to into that meat ginder of a bit.  That would not be good.  So I maintain a firm hold, steady down-pressure, take light passes and listen to the router sound; it it's laoding up I'm cutting too deep and need to back off before it gets angry.

When he panel is done I can fit it into the frame. I don't leave gaps all around the panel then stick little rubber balls in there to keep them from rattling like some do.  I especially want a tight side-to-side fit - where the wood will not be expanding - to help strengthen the assembly against sideways racking.  The panel is not glued into the frame, it must be left free to float so it doesn't crack when contracting, but just being a snug fit in teh bottoms of those side grooves brases the whole assembly.  I do figure expansion room in the upper/lower joints so the panel has somewhere to go when it swells up.

One added benefit of this type of construction is that the inside of the bench will be pretty much flat and smooth, few annoying nooks for caked mud or dirt to build up on.

An that takes care of the fancy edge work.  When I do the front and back panels, as well as the back panel of the shelf, it will be done in just this manner.  In the next episode we will complete construction of the end pieces.

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