Step 9 - Fitting The Arms
All thumbnail pictures can be enlarged by clicking them.
The next step is to dry fit all the joinery we've cut into the various parts so the parts can be assembled into the benches framework.
 As the parts were made, each was labeled as to which bench it went to (remember we are building three benches for this project), location (left or right, top or bottom, etc) and orientation (which end is left/right or front/back). I start with the end frames. I gather all the pieces needed to make one end frame, check the orientation, then begin shaving away a little wood at a time from inside the mortises to clean them up, and from the tenon faces to smooth away the band saw marks and bring them down to the proper dimensions. I test fit the joint often so I don't over shoot and have to glue shims to the tenon to build it back out.
 Each joint is individually fitted so that I get a snug fit that slides together firmly but without the need for great force (like hammering). If it's too tight it will be difficult to draw together once you wet the wood with glue and it swells up a bit, too loose and the joint may fail, as glue alone will not fill gaps to create a solid bond. When each joint fits properly I dry assemble the whole end frame. Here tensions in the wood can twist the joints just enough to need some persuasion as they are assembled.
 As each end frame is fitted I set it aside. I will not glue any of these parts together until the entire frame has been dry fitted.
 Fitting the long rails to the end frames while working alone can be a challenge that requires some ingenuity. The top rail on these benches turns out to be just the same height as my work table, so it was easy, but to fit the lower rails I have to set the end frame on a low shelving unit and clamp my largest hand screw clamps to the feet to hold it upright while the rail is again laid on the table. I thought I got a picture of that rig, but I guess it didn't take.
 The upper back rail uses a regular straight mortise & tenon joint, but the tenons on lower rails encounter the seat support inside the leg posts, so these parts are each fitted with partially mitered tenons to allow both parts to play nice together. I could just cut a full width miter on all the parts, but that would leave cavities inside the joint where water might seep in and collect, eventually weakening the joint or causing the wood to rot. It also would remove just that much more glue surface from the joint; I like to keep as much wood-to-wood glue surface as possible inside the joints, so I take the extra trouble to hand cut these joints for a perfect fit.
 Once the rails fit to the ends, it's time to fit the back slats into the back rails. The slats fit into mortises in the bottom of the upper back rail and the top of the lower back rail. I fit one slat into each end of each rail and try to fit the assembly back to the end frame, take a measurement of how much too high the top rail is and cut that much off of each slat. Then I can sand each slat and fit them to their mortises. A band clamp in the middle holds the assembly together white I dry fit it again to the end frames.
 The front rail uses another of those mitered tenon joints, and I need to install the middle seat supports into their mortises before the front rail goes in. Once all the pieces have come together and I am assured that everything fits, I can take it all apart again and reassemble it with glue and clamps.
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